Ghash—For a taste of real Cairo, head for this fuul restaurant famous throughout the city for serving the best beans in town. Fuul comes with a variety of toppings, salads and bread. Guests sit outside at tables set up in the street. The place is open to 4 am and really gets going only after midnight, when (it seems) all of Cairo is hanging out in the street, eating fuul and chatting. Shisha (water pipe with tobacco) and soft drinks served, no alcohol. A little English is spoken. $. Maraseena Street (Sayeda Zeinab), about five minutes from downtown by cab. No phone.